The Salk Institute for Biological Studies is one of the top few research institutes in the world. Founded in 1963 by Jonas Salk, developer of the first safe and effective polio vaccine in the 1950s, it is also an architectural marvel. And it’s in nearby La Jolla, on a bluff overseeing the Pacific Ocean.
I was fortunate to be among several Boston College alumni invited to join an architectural tour of the facility in late October. The tour was led by Lissa Tsu, leader of the San Diego Boston College alumni chapter and a docent at the Salk.
We first gathered inside, alongside the amazing glass sculpture by Dale Chihuly, representing the action within “The Sun.”
This post is going to be mostly photos, and you’ll see why, but first a little background. Salk never patented the vaccine he developed and earned no money from it, wanting it to be distributed as widely and freely as possible.
His desire to found a research institute to develop other medicines was supported financially by the National Foundation/March of Dimes and enabled further by the gifting of 27 acres in La Jolla by the City of San Diego. He partnered with architect Louis Kahn to design the research center. He directed Kahn to “create a facility worthy of a visit by Picasso.” It was completed and opened in 1963. Jonas Salk died in La Jolla in 1995 at the age of 80.
The entrance to the main campus.
The sun plays a major role in the appearance of the buildings at the Salk. As the sun moves across the sky, it creates shadows and changes the appearance of the concrete and teak that form most of the buildings.
The structures contain several levels, some below “ground” level.
At the western end of the courtyard is a patio and pool . . . and wonderful view of the Pacific. We also lucked out by having our tour close to sunset.
There is a water feature that bisects the main courtyard. It’s called the “River of Life.”
Here it is “in action” (12 seconds).
There is a much more comprehensive and learned presentation of the Salk Institute architecture on its website. Below is the link to a “virtual tour” of the institute, offering videos on various aspects of the architecture.
Since moving to SoCal in 2012, I’ve joined Boston College classmates each year for a BC football game in Chestnut Hill or on the road, except for the initial COVID year of 2020. All the trips have included visits to family and friends in the Boston area and on Cape Cod. So, did it again in mid-September for the BC-Michigan State football game on September 21.
A wrinkle this time was visiting daughter Julia and son-in-law Sam in their new home in Arlington, Va. I had seen them the previous two years when they lived in Ypsilanti, Mich. For whatever reason, getting from San Diego to Washington, D.C., ain’t easy. Well, it isn’t difficult, just inconvenient.
The airlines I fly, for ease of visiting my friends and kids, are JetBlue and Delta. Neither airline offers a non-stop to DC from San Diego. Delta has a stop in Detroit and JetBlue has a stop and change of plane in Boston. ?? I took the redeye on JetBlue to Boston and an early flight from there to Reagan Airport. I realized soon after I arrived that I had never flown into that airport. I had always previously flown into Dulles, which is much farther from the city. Reagan is very convenient to the city and to Arlington.
As Julia and Sam had just moved in and their condo is small, I stayed with friends. Pat and Tom Sugrue are close friends and live in Alexandria, close to Arlington. It was “interesting” that my room in the Sugrues’ townhouse was on the fourth floor and Julia and Sam live in a fourth-floor walkup. During the three-plus days I visited, I set personal records each day in “flights climbed,” all in the mid-20s.
I had mentioned to Julia earlier that I was interested in seeing a new monument in DC. I had seen a feature about the National World War I Memorial on CBS Sunday Morning. It opened earlier in the fall, the most recent memorial and one commemorating US participation in a war more than 100 years ago. It’s a dramatic 58-foot long relief sculpture located in Pershing Park, dedicated to the US general who led American troops in the war.
The artist who created it said he wanted it to be realistic, as opposed to the more abstract memorials marking other conflicts. He said he wanted people to view and sense the mud, blood, and passion of the experience. The sculpture is called “A Soldier’s Journey” and shows different facets of the conflict and the diverse group of American soldiers who fought in it.
Here is a video of the dynamic sculpture (34 seconds). (Sorry for the occasional photo-bombing finger.)
On our walk to the Metro to visit that first day, we passed the Marine Corps War Memorial, with its iconic sculpture of the flag-raising on Iwo Jima.
On my second day, Julia and I visited Mount Vernon, the mansion and expansive grounds occupied by George and Martha Washington, and many others, on the shores of the Potomac River just south of DC. While a national historic site, it does not have that status officially. The site is managed by the Mount Vernon Ladies Association, the same group that purchased it in 1854 following decades of its decline. Both Virginia and the US Congress had declined to preserve the site. It is sustained now by admission fees and donations.
Reportedly, George Washington said he could not think of a better location for a home and farm. It’s pretty nice.
I left DC Friday morning, the day before the football game. Taking off, I realized we were flying close over the Pentagon and took a photo.
Julia was tracking my flight on Flight Aware, an app that lets you track flights in near real time. She saw that it was to fly over her location, looked out, and took a picture of the plane I was on as it passed overhead. I don’t think that has ever happened before with us.
The earlier flight from Boston to DC had been mostly over the ocean. Because of weather conditions, I believe, the flight to Boston was much closer to the shore. I noted when we passed over Baltimore harbor and was struck by seeing its broken bridge in real life.
Not long after, I glanced out the window and saw a dark colored rectangle below amidst the clouds. Central Park?
Indeed it was. And it’s the photo at the top of this post.
Once in Boston I began my traditional bus, T, commuter rail journey to South Acton, adjacent to the Acton home of Marcy Kenah, my home base for the next several days. That afternoon, I joined Marcy, the Sugrues, Debbie and Ken Hamberg, Shelia and Dan Downey, Jackie Hewitt, and Ed Hattauer for a wonderful dinner and get-together.
The weather forecast for Saturday’s game, which was to begin at 8 pm, was not good. The previous year, the same group had been at West Point for the game with Army. It rained, often heavily, all day. We all got soaked and most of us left at halftime to return to the hotel on base to watch the game on television.
The group gathered that afternoon at Debbie and Ken’s condo on Commonwealth Avenue, near Kenmore Square, to lunch, watch afternoon games, and prepare for travel to Alumni Stadium. There was constant attention to weather forecasts, which varied from rain ending by game time to rain throughout.
The Acton contingent of Marcy, the Sugrues, and me ultimately chose not to attend the game, but to return to Acton to watch the game in a warm, dry living room. The others braved the elements and attended the game, with varying degrees of satisfaction. BC did, however, come back to beat Michigan State and the vibe of the crowd in the stadium was electric.
Sunday was the start of my visitation phase, aiming first for a visit to Plum Island and the cottage there of my cousin, Kathy Gagne McNanamy. I had made a reservation at the nearby Avis location in Maynard for an inexpensive subcompact car. When Marcy dropped me off, I saw that there were many more cars there than usual.
The young man who was manning the site said that because of so many cars he needed them to move fast and I could have any car in the lot at no extra cost. I looked around and, for the third year in a row, I was able to drive out in a pickup. The previous two had been Toyota Tacomas. This one was a Ford 15o XLT. Nice truck!
It was a wonderful afternoon and evening with Kathy, highlighted by a meal of lobster and sides, and the presence of Maureen and Tony Raymond. I had worked with Maureen at BC, where Tony also worked. Soon after starting work at BC in 2000, I had learned from Kathy that one of her sons had married the daughter of Maureen and Tony. At that point, I went to Maureen’s office and said, “I think we’re almost related.” And our relationship has been closer ever since.
Monday was the trek to the Cape, where I met up with Susan and Reid Oslin, my hosts at their home in West Dennis. That evening, we joined Karen and Richard Sullivan at the annual dinner occasioned by my annual visit. And I split the next morning just “visiting” with the Oslins and later with the Sullivans at their home in Mashpee.
As an indicator of this stage of my life and the lives of my contemporaries, I was sadly unable to meet with two other friends because of their health issues.
Back up in Boston, I visited with Tom Burke and then went to the BC campus. Because of the size of my truck :), I was again unable to use the campus parking garages. Visiting with our alumni liaison, Dara Garrison, at the Cadigan Center on the Brighton Campus, I was able to use a visitor parking space for the day.
Several other people at Alumni stopped to say hello, including Mark Benjamin, whom I had not seen in years. Mark and I had a pleasant reminiscence. Later, I had the chance to meet briefly with Bob Capalbo and also chatted with Lee Pellegrini, with whom I worked closely for many years.
On my final full day, I had the chance to see Leo DeNatale, old friend and best man at my wedding, and Nate Kenyon at the Law School. Spent much of the afternoon with Margaret Evans and Rob Sternstein, two very lively and lovely friends.
Back home, it was nice to be able to stay in one place for a while. I look forward very much to next year’s journey and the BC-Notre Dame game in Chestnut Hill! We also expect to have some “reverse action,” with classmates and friends coming West when the Eagles play Stanford.
I had the privilege of attending a ceremony aboard the USS Midway Museum Friday, August 2, to honor Lowell Lindsay, a fellow Navy veteran.
Lowell and his wife, Diana, ran Sunbelt Publications, publishers of many volumes on the natural sciences, historical and cultural issues, and the San Diego region, for more than 30 years. Diana has a long association with the Anza-Borrego Foundation, serving as its President and as a long-time member of its Board of Trustees. I’ve been an ABF trustee for about a dozen years and President for the past four years.
In recent years, I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know the Lindsays. Conversing about our earlier years, Lowell and I came to realize we each served in the Navy in the Gulf of Tonkin, off the coast of northern Vietnam and southern China, in the summer and fall of 1969.
Lowell was a helicopter pilot, serving various roles, such as search-and-rescue, and conveying personnel and supplies among the ships in the Gulf. I was stationed on the USS Biddle (DLG-34), a guided missile “destroyer leader,” later classified as a cruiser. It’s possible, Lowell and I realized, that he may have landed on the Biddle as part of his duties.
Among the aircraft carriers his squadron operated from was the USS Midway and on the flight deck of the USS Midway Museum now is the actual helicopter he piloted.
Last fall, Diana had invited me to join her, Lowell, her son, and a couple of friends on a VIP tour of the Midway Museum that she had won in a raffle. I had posted about it. During the tour, Diana said later, she noted the presence of a pilot’s name on “Lowell’s helo.” She inquired about how Lowell’s name might be added. And then she brought it about.
She wanted to keep it a surprise for Lowell, however. Guests to the event on August 2 were aware of what was about to happen, but Lowell was kept unaware. He knew the event was to celebrate his and Diana’s 60th wedding anniversary. Which it was, as well.
At the lectern next to the helicopter, and before the collection of family and friends on the Midway flight deck, Diana talked about the couple’s anniversary and then directed Lowell’s attention to the helicopter. Below the window at the pilot’s station was a sheet of paper, evidently placed there to cover something. She urged him to remove it.
When Lowell removed the paper, he became quietly emotional (at right), while the group cheered. Under the window, it now read “LT LOWELL EDWARD LINDSAY.”
The rest of the afternoon was filled with “sea stories,” reminiscences among Lowell and fellow squadron mates, and hearty congratulations to Lowell and Diana.
Bravo zulu, LT Lindsay! And Diana!
The USS Midway Museum is berthed alongside the Navy Pier in San Diego Harbor. It is one of the most-visited attractions in San Diego and the most-visited maritime museum in the United States.
The flight deck offers four acres of open-air space 50 feet above the bay. It is the site of many events and spectacles.
Meredith, the granddaughters (Addy and Alice), and I had the pleasure of visiting the Avocado Festival in “downtown” Fallbrook this morning. It was the first time we’d gone in a few years. It was canceled in 2020 when COVID hit and wasn’t held in 2021. This year was the 37th festival.
It was great to see the festival back at full bore. A reported 450 vendors set up tented exhibits and there were plenty of entertainment and food choices. Attendance was expected to approach 100,000 over the course of the day.
We went pretty early, around 9:30 am, and only stayed about an hour, enough time to walk up and down the festival grounds on Main Street (it’s officially Main Avenue, but I can’t bring myself to use that) and blocks to the east and west of Main.
The grandgirls enjoyed lemonade, guacamole, avocado ice cream. I find my focus to be people-watching and marveling at the range of products and services that put up exhibits at these local fests.
Addy shared some of the guac with me. I didn’t realize until I was preparing this post and working with the photos that I had dressed in pretty much avocado color. Had not been an intent. (Addy, on the other hand, made a point of wearing her avocado hat.)
We also spent a little time at the festival stage for some dancing and colorful costumes.
Fallbrook calls itself the “Avocado Capital of the World.” That title had more clout before 1997 when the US lifted a ban on the import of avocados from Mexico that had been in place since 1914. When the ban had been in effect, 90 percent of avocados consumed by Americans were grown in Southern California, and Fallbrook had many avocado groves.
The festival celebrates the community and all things avocado. There are contests for avocado costumes (Awesome Avocado Attire), best guacamole (duh), Avo 500 Avocado Race, Best Dressed Avocado, and Little Mister and Miss Avocado.
There’s avocado ice cream and avocado fudge, of course, but this product was new to me.
Fallbrook being something of an artists’ colony, there are also avocado-based art exhibits and contests. (Sorry for the reflections in the window.)
The “pit” of avocado-themed products in Fallbrook is this place.
And, if there is a chance to get a lot of people around, another SoCal interest shows up — vintage cars. There were maybe a dozen autos in the exhibit sponsored by the Fallbrook Vintage Car Club at the festival, but it was mainly a promotion of their upcoming annual show to take place on May 26 and on Fallbrook’s Main Street. Dozens of cars will be on exhibit then.
Matthieu Pavon came from behind to win the 2024 Farmers Insurance Open (FIO) on January 27 and become the first Frenchman since World War II to win on the PGA Tour.
As the photo above shows, Pavon was three strokes behind when he teed off at the 3rd hole (where I was once again hole captain). After hitting an incredible shot to the 18th green from the deep rough, he sank an eight-foot putt for a birdie, a three-under-par round of 69, and a one-stroke win over Denmark’s Nicolai Hojgaard. It was his only birdie on the the back nine.
Pavon and Hojgaard are not what you would call “household names” in golf. They were among several golfers new to the tournament this year, replacing several more well-known golfers who didn’t play the tournament this year.
(I’m going to throw in some photos, not so much related to the text, but to offer some visuals.)
I found it particularly striking that, during the final two rounds, the leading three groups of nine players contained only three American golfers and the final group was all Europeans.
Professional golf, as are several other sports, is changing dramatically and the Farmers this year reflected that change. The changes, I fear, may significantly lessen the tournament’s attractiveness to players and fans and perhaps even threaten its future.
The tournament was first dealt a blow in 2022 when it had to shift from the Thursday-Sunday schedule that every other PGA tournament followed to a Wednesday-Saturday schedule. The reason? Oddly, perhaps, the National Football League.
Before 2022, the Farmers was played on a fortuitous weekend for attention and television viewership. It was played on the weekend between the NFL conference championships and the Super Bowl with no football competition. (Don’t know if true, but I had been told when I started volunteering that the Farmers was the most-watched PGA tournament outside of the majors.)
Then the NFL added a 17th regular season game, pushing the conference championships to the weekend normally open to the FIO. CBS televised the Farmers, but also one of the Sunday NFL games. The Farmers had to lose its Sunday final round.
Then, this year, with competition from the LIV golf tour that attracted several major PGA players, the PGA agreed to designate several tournaments as “signature” events, with much larger purses and no cuts after the first two rounds. Fewer players qualified for such tournaments and they were the top-rated players.
This year, the Farmers had only 20 of the top 50 players in world rankings and only three of the top 10 — Xander Schauffle (who’s a local), Patrick Cantlay, and Max Homa. It wasn’t a “bad field.” It included nine winners of majors.
The total purse available at this year’s Farmers was $9 million, with Pavon receiving $1.62 million for winning. The AT&T Pebble Beach Pro-Am, which took place the following week, had a total purse of $20 million, with the winner walking away with $3.6 million.
Also, Farmers Insurance has announced they will end their sponsorship of the tournament in 2026. The tournament has been organized by the Century Club of San Diego, a charitable organization formed in 1961 to broaden the appeal of the annual golf tournament that provides monies for local charities. Since the late ’60s, when it was known as the Andy Williams San Diego Open, it has also been sponsored by Isuzo Motors, Shearson Lehman Brothers, and, for 16 years, by Buick.
I enjoyed working with my crew of marshals, most of them returning from previous years. And it was fun to work with a couple of new folks. We took a group shot of most of the crew, as well as a couple of folks from Competition Support assigned to our hole.
As usual, the tournament was my most concentrated period of exercise. I was there five days (the pro-am was Tuesday) and walked a total of 45,639 steps (about 20 miles), climbing 53 “flights.” The number of steps was estimated to be about the same as 11.8 crossings of the Golden Gate Bridge and 8.1 laps around the Daytona International Speedway. Slept well.
During the afternoon of January 20, I joined a band of fellow board and staff members of the Anza-Borrego Foundation, as well as a few of their kids, on a visit to two popular sites in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. The first was Vista del Malpais and the other was Coyote Canyon, to check out where the “road” had been washed out there by water brought by recent rains.
We needed four-wheel off-road vehicles and Paulette Donnellon and Sergey Kushch provided two of the better ones. Paulette had her Jeep Wrangler Rubicon and Sergey had the redesigned Ford Bronco and the appropriately named “Badlands” model. Here they are pre-excursion.
Also in the group were board member Stephanie DiPalma and her husband, Tom, in their Jeep Wrangler Sport, and ABF executive director Bri Fordem and board member Maris Brancheau.
The Vista del Malpais is, as the words themselves convey, where you have a “view of the bad country,” or as commonly used in the West, the badlands. To get there, you have to go through some “not-so-great” lands, in terms of easy travel, anyway. That’s Sergey’s and my view from the Bronco at the top of this post.
We did finally get to the view point and it was definitely worth the trip.
We also saw a few desert lilies, a potential harbringer of what might be widespread flowering of the desert in the spring.
The Coyote Canyon area of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is about 75,000 acres in size, about a sixth of the Park. It is a deep cut between mountain ranges extending about 10 miles northwest of Borrego Springs. A section of the San Jacinto Fault runs right through the area and it is considered an active seismic zone.
Coyote Canyon is closed to the public June 1-September 30 each year to allow Peninsular Bighorn Sheep access to the creek that runs through the canyon.
When we went, access was closed at the “Third Crossing,” so named because it was the third occasion on the trail where the Coyote Creek could flow over it during the wet season. And it was flowing.
Just off to the side of the “road” and creek was possible evidence of prior and historic seismic activity — a dramatic collection of huge boulders. An adult human would be less than half the height of most of these.
That evening in Borrego Springs, we joined other ABF board and staff members, along with friends and family, at a “Sip & Savor Soirée” wine-tasting event at the Borrego Springs home of Jimmy and Judy Smith. Refined conclusion to a rugged (in a good way) day.
“Moderation in all things” is one of my favorite aphorisms. Especially when you add “. . . including moderation.” This past year seemed a mix of the routine and regular, spiced with new experiences and new acquaintances. That may be the best balance in life. (Note: Addy’s somewhat odd arms arrangement in the photo above is explained by the presence of a praying mantis in her hands. Why the praying mantis is there is beyond explanation.)
My activities early in the year started as they have for the last 12 years, volunteering at the Farmers Insurance Open PGA golf tournament at Torrey Pines. It was my fourth year as hole captain on hole #3 on the south course. Still a really nice place to spend a few days.
Soon after I moved to Fallbrook in 2012, I realized I lived in what could be called “horse country.” Heck, my neighbors had them and I often drove past nearby horse ranches. My own experience with horses had been limited to riding on a pony at the age of five, wearing my Hopalong Cassidy gear, and being led around a corral at a local park. Being here, I wanted to do something more with horses. But what?
Switching channels one morning in May, I caught the end of a program on a local channel. It was a live segment at a therapeutic horse-riding program. I caught the name and was startled to recognize that it was just down the street from me. I drove by it almost every day, but didn’t realize what it was. They mentioned they always welcomed volunteers. I went online, applied, and I now volunteer at REINS (Riding Emphasizing Individual Needs and Strengths).
I just go Tuesday mornings, but it is the most active morning of my week. In addition to raking straw, filling water barrels, and shoveling poop, I assist therapists who work with riders, children and adults, with special needs, mental and physical.
Most often, I’ve been a “side walker.” I walk alongside the horse on the side opposite from the therapist working directly with the rider. I’m there usually to provide some physical support to riders who may be unsteady in the saddle. Recently, I’ve begun to “lead” horses, directing them where the therapist wants and halting and getting them to move ahead. (See more)
I was fortunate again this year to travel to see family and friends. The annual trip “back East” centered around the BC football game at West Point in October. We stayed at the historic Thayer Hotel, located on the post, on the banks of the Hudson River.
The hotel was an “easy” uphill mile-long walk to the football stadium. In the rain.
Oh, did it rain. Each of us thought we had water-proof gear. Nope. All of us got soaked. It’s what hours of steady and sometimes heavy rain can do.
Most of us stayed only for the first half. We repaired to the hotel to watch the rest of the game on tv . . . and dry out. (See more)
Next phase of the trip was to the Cape and Boston. Picking up my Avis rental in Cambridge, I got a repeat of what happened last year. Only vehicles available were a minivan and what you see below. Again, ridin’ the pickup.
At BC, I visited our liaison in the Alumni office. While we met in the building’s atrium, person after person stopped by to say hello. Our liaison said next time I visit, she’s going to send out a blast email to the office to let people know I’ll be there.
Stopped in Michigan on the way home to see Julia, Sam, Dillon, and the Wolverines. I was able to get tickets to the Michigan-Indiana game from a friend, and Dillon and I got to go to the Big House. Where it rained.
Great scene. Huge band. Rabid fans. Once again, though, conditions forced us to head for home after the halftime show.
Just happy otherwise to settle in with Julia and Sam. (See more)
I start my final year as president of the Anza-Borrego Foundation in January. In recent years, ABF has grown in staff and resources, consequently expanding educational programs, purchasing land to convey to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, and providing direct financial support to the Park. ABF’s growth has been due to good fortune, the generosity of donors, and a great staff.
We were able to return to ABF board meetings in person a few times this year. On one occasion, I stayed overnight in Borrego Springs and awoke to this desert sunrise.
The grandgirls are 11 and 8 years old, with Adeline turning 12 in January. She was born less than two weeks after I moved to Fallbrook. Middle school next year. !! For my birthday earlier this month, Alice wrote in a card, “I hope you find wonders in the age 77.” She’s one of them, as is Addy.
Meredith works in development at the Boys and Girls Club in town and Winter is at Charlie’s Foreign Auto in Encinitas. He recently joined the big 4-0 club.
Happy Hanukkah, merry Christmas, and happy New Year to you and your family. May 2024 bring all you hope for!
Phase 3 of the trip “back east” this year went a little west. I left Boston for Detroit on October 12. Dillon picked me up and we rode to nearby Ypsilanti, to Julia’s and Sam’s house.
They were grieving. I had been aware of the failing condition of Juno, the chihuahua they “inherited” when it was already elderly, but only on arrival found out Juno had been euthanized that afternoon at the house. We reminisced about Juno and paid attention to Tarski, their toy poodle.
While the primary reason for the visit was simply to see my daughter, son-in-law, and son, there was an add-on reason that was just happenstance. In 2022, I had interacted with a member of our BC alumni chapter at a gamewatch. I learned that she was from Michigan and her kids attended the university. She added that she had season tickets to Michigan football games and sometimes not all of them were used.
I realized that during my visit, Michigan was to play Indiana in the Big House, the stadium on campus. I contacted the fellow BC grad who said she had just learned from her son that he would not be using two of the tickets for that game. I was able to purchase the tickets for Dillon and me. For some reason, Dillon was a big Michigan football fan when he was a kid. For both of us, this would be an exciting experience.
Here’s an aerial photo of the stadium and its surroundings.
Of course, it was going to rain. This radar image showed the weather for southeastern Michigan on October 14.
Julia and Sam dropped us off and we joined the many thousands heading toward the stadium. (Michigan Stadium is the largest college stadium in the country. Its official capacity is 107,601.)
I remember another Michigan native telling me about her daughter, raised in the state and an attendee at Wolverine games. She’s now a student at Stanford and she tells her mother about attending Cardinal football games, “It’s just not the same!” Wolverine fans are pretty intense. They all seem to know the songs, the cheers, when to pump their fist, etc.
Gotta admit, this is a great college fight song. (22-second video)
The Wolverines actually started a bit slow in this game. Indiana scored first and dominated the first quarter, outgaining Michigan substantially. Halftime score was 21-7 Michigan, however, and the final score was 52-7.
And when you have 100,000 people in the stands, you need a big band. Michigan has a big band. The halftime show was extensive and featured something of a “horse race.” The band formed two ovals, one inside the other. A hundred and more of what I assume were kids, dressed in horse costumes, ran into the stadium. Most of them frolicked in the center of the oval and some, carrying flags representing the schools in the Big Ten, raced inside the “race track.”
The “race,” of course, was fixed. Finishing first, in what I assume is always the result, was the “horse” representing Michigan. And finishing far behind, indeed last, was the “horse” representing Ohio State.
Check it out.
For the second week in a row, I didn’t see the second half of a football game, at least not in person. Dillon agreed it was wise to head home and watch the rest of the game on television.
While waiting in downtown Ann Arbor for Julia and Sam to pick us up, I came across this striking tree in the courtyard of a university building.
Sunday, we visited one of the stores in the Zingerman’s empire for breakfast. The “Zingerman’s Community of Businesses” is a collection of establishments in the Ann Arbor area each offering a food specialty. It started in 1982 with Zingerman’s Delicatessan, where Julia and I got sandwiches during my visit in 2022. Boy, is it good!
Julia also showed me her new hobby, which may be a retro hobby coming back into vogue. Remember macramé? Here’s just a few of her output.
She’s also expanding their garden and zinnias are a new addition.
Later, we visited downtown Ypsilanti and some of the unusual stores. There was also a bar that seemed to bring us back several decades.
The annual gathering of the Sutherland Road gang (Boston College students who lived at 12 Sutherland Road, Brighton, during junior and senior years), their spouses/partners, and me centered on West Point, N.Y., this fall. BC football was to play Army at the historic and picturesque military academy on October 6.
The red-eye from San Diego to Boston was supposed to be quick and calm. It was quick, but also turbulent. No sleep. At one point in the flight, according to the app FlightAware, the plane was flying at 648 miles an hour. We got into Logan Airport before dawn and, even after taking a bus and subway ride, I arrived at North Station for my commuter rail ride before Dunkin’ Donuts was open.
I took the train to Winchester where Ed Hattauer picked me up and brought me to the beautiful home he and Jackie Hewitt share. Caught up with some sleep in preparation for our drive the next day to West Point.
We arrived at West Point Friday afternoon and took our rooms at the Thayer Hotel, located on the post. We had reserved rooms in the hotel’s “executive wing,” a newer addition to the almost century-old hotel. Mine was called a “suite,” but it was a spacious single room. Ken and Debbie Hamberg did have a three-room suite, which was a welcome respite at times.
The weather forecast for Friday evening and Saturday was for rain, sometimes heavy. We all (except for Pat Sugrue, who wisely deferred from getting wet) had what we thought was waterproof gear. I even had “waterproof socks.” Before starting the mile-long, uphill walk to the stadium, we had a group photo taken in the hotel lobby.
On the walk, we passed a small area for tailgaters with an interesting sign. Not a temporary sign, a permanent one. I approached the tailgaters near the sign and said I wanted to take a picture. They said sure. As I left, I said, “Retired Navy.” Their response, “We welcome all.”
There was a section of the stadium that was under cover. That’s not where our seats were. Our seats were in the uncovered endzone. But several of the group stayed under cover standing among the many others also seeking shelter. The Hambergs and I went to our seats. After all, we had “waterproof” clothing. Here’s a brief video (9 seconds) of the view from our seats.
Two San Diego friends had said earlier they might be attending the game. While at the game, I received a text that they were sitting in the endzone. I got up and looked for them. With everyone bundled in raingear, it was more than difficult to identify individuals. As I stood near the field looking up into the endzone stands, suddenly a figure stood and waved. I approached and it was Lori Mahler! And I then joined her, Joe Mahler, and their daughter Caitlin, who lives in New York City. (Lori said she had noticed some guy just looking up into the stands and then realized it was me.)
As halftime came, we agreed that it was smarter to return to the hotel and watch the remainder of the game on tv. All but two of the original group did the same. Two had found seats under cover when the previous seatholders left and saw the game through. The Mahlers and I joined the group sheltering in the Hamberg’s suite. (By the way, the Eagles dominated the first half and led 13-3 when we left. Watching on tv was initially discouraging, as the Black Knights came back and took the lead in the final quarter. BC scored a touchdown with 25 seconds left and won 27-24.)
All of us who returned to the hotel were soaked. The “waterproof” gear simply couldn’t be completely effective for hours in steady, often heavy, rain. As I had brought only two changes of clothing to the hotel and only one pair of shoes, I went to dinner in the hotel dressed in a teeshirt and jeans and wearing socks.
Before getting to the hotel, I had gone on its website to check out amenities, etc. I saw that the hotel gave a 20 percent discount on dining to members of the “military.” As mentioned earlier, I’m “retired Navy.” I didn’t know if the discount applied only for active duty military. If I qualified, I wanted to figure out how to finesse the discount for maximum benefit of the group. Like maybe I would order the wine. I asked at the desk before we went to dinner Friday night (I was better dressed then). What I learned was a pleasant surprise.
I was advised that, when the final check came, I show my ID. The server would then apply the discount to the entire bill. To everyone, and for everything. Nice! I put everything on my card and, at the end of the weekend, Pat Sugrue was kind enough to figure it all out and assign what each person owed. Our teetotalers were not included in the liquor and wine charges.
Our first stop on the ride home was the nearest Tesla charger. Jackie’s Tesla had gone the 216 miles from Winchester to West Point without an additional charge, but needed one to get all the way back. Ed came up with a pleasant musical “game” to play during much of the four-hour ride. Connecting his iPhone to the car’s audio system, he would search for songs on Apple Music. Each of us in rotation would recommend a song and share context for choosing those particular songs.
Monday began phase 2 of the trip, which was visits to friends and family on the Cape and in the Boston area. As I finally got through a somewhat long line at Avis in Cambridge to pick up my rental, it was deja vu all over again. As had happened last year at the Avis office in Maynard, the only vehicles available for me to rent were a minivan and a pickup. Oh yeah!
First stop was Harwich Port, where I had lunch with BC classmate and USS Biddle shipmate Steve Curran and his wife, Kathie, at Brax Landing. Then a visit with high school classmate Susan Hartley Mantoni, where we had a great chat. Next was the Oslins home in Dennis, where I was to stay overnight. Reid drove Susan and me in his new Jeep to dinner with BC classmate and friend since grammar school Richard Sullivan and wife, Karen.
Next day, drove to Wood’s Hole to meet my sister, Ann, who had come over from Martha’s Vineyard to share lunch. We went to a restaurant right near the ferry landing. When I visited the restroom, I noted the sign identifying the area for restrooms.
Back in the Boston area, I spent the next day-and-a-half visiting friends. Started at BC, where my truck was too high to use any of the parking garages on campus. I had intended to meet with Dara Garrison, liaison to our alumni chapter in San Diego, so I called and asked if I might also use a parking space in front of Cadigan Alumni Center. She said sure.
When I went to the reception desk at Cadigan, I recognized the receptionist and she recognized me, as did another woman standing nearby. I had left work in that department 12 years earlier and hadn’t really been in that office since. Then other people walking by recognized me and came by to say hello.
Sitting with Dara in the atrium, several more people stopped and came over to say hello. Laughing, Dara said the next time I was to meet with her there, she would send a blast email out to the building to let people know. At one point, I noticed in the corner of my eye a woman standing and staring. I looked over and it was Kate Heusner, a friend who had been in the alumni chapter in San Diego, and had recently taken a job at BC and moved to the area. A pleasant surprise.
Later that day, I met with Maureen Raymond, Bob Capalbo, and Lee Pellegrini, all former colleagues. I first worked with Lee at BC in the early 1980s. Closed the day with Margaret Evans and husband, Rob Sternstein, for dinner at a Brookline spot. Busy, but nice day.
Phase 2 of the trip ended the next morning. After meeting with Leo deNatale, former roommate and best man at my 1978 wedding, for coffee and reminiscing, I took the truck to Logan and began the trip west. Not all the way, just to Michigan.
On September 30, I had the honor and privilege to join Diana and Lowell Lindsay on a VIP tour of the USS Midway Museum, berthed in San Diego Harbor. Diana had won the tour in a raffle and the prize allowed her to have five people join her. She invited me to be among them.
A couple of years ago, Lowell and I had learned that, during our service in the Navy, we had both served in the Gulf of Tonkin, off the coasts of northern Vietnam and southern China, during the summer and fall of 1969. He was a helicopter pilot, shuttling people and supplies among the ships in the Gulf, and I was intelligence officer on a destroyer.
The tour allowed us to go on the ship an hour before its formal opening, permitting access to spaces that would later be filled with tourists and museum visitors. A museum volunteer, a former Naval aviator, was our personal guide. And we would end the tour with a meeting with the museum chief executive officer, who would then treat us to lunch.
Arriving a bit early, I walked along the pier at which the Midway is berthed. Looking across the harbor to Naval Air Station, North Island, I was surprised to see all three aircraft carriers homeported at North Island lined up. Usually at least one of them is deployed.
To give some background on this distinctive museum, the USS Midway (CVA-41) was commissioned eight days after the end of World War II, in September 1945. It had been named for the landmark victory by the US Navy in the area of Midway Island in 1942. Midway was the largest ship in the world until 1955.
In more than 46 years active service, Midway saw action in the waters off Vietnam and in the Persian Gulf during Operation Desert Storm, in addition to many deployments to the Mediterranean and Western Pacific. It was modernized several times during service, including the addition of an angled flight deck in 1957. The photo below shows the ship in 1958.
Decommissioned in 1992 in San Diego, Midway was put into storage in Bremerton, Wash. Many ship veterans and those who flew off it over the years organized efforts to make the ship a floating museum in San Diego, the birthplace of Naval aviation. The Navy donated the ship in 2003 to the non-profit San Diego Aircraft Carrier Museum foundation. Thousands of volunteers made the ship accessible to visitors, prepared exhibits, and more. The USS Midway Museum opened to the public in June 2004.
Despite doubts by many about chances for success, Midway has developed into one of San Diego’s most popular attractions. More than a million people visit it each year. TripAdvisor says Midway is the fourth most popular museum of any kind in the U.S.
Among our group was Jon Lindsay, son of Diana and Lowell, and he and I had another Navy connection. Jon was also an intelligence officer. On active duty, he had served in Iraq, working with SEAL teams 1 and 4. In 1970-71, I had served on the staff of Naval Special Warfare Group, Pacific, which was the command over SEAL and Underwater Demolition teams, in Coronado.
A Stanford grad, Jon also received a master’s there in computer science and later earned a PhD in political science from MIT. A retired Lieutenant Commander, he is associate professor at the School of Cybersecurity and Privacy at Georgia Tech. He’s the author of Information Technology and Military Power (Cornell, 2020) and co-author and editor of other works. So there the similarities diverge.
Also in the group were Greg Cranham, a local fellow geologist with Lowell, and Jean Billings, whose husband had served with Lowell in the same helicopter squadron.
Below are scenes from the tour.
Later, as we joined a group of “regular” visitors about to go to the top levels of the “island,” we received a briefing, which included warnings about the steepness of the ascent. Standard Navy “ladders” connecting decks were converted to stairs in much of Midway to accommodate a wide range of visitors. That was not possible in the narrow superstructure.
As the volunteer concluded his briefing, he pointed to me and said, “And you’re going to lead the way.” I looked puzzled, I expect, until he added, “Because you’ve done it before.” I was wearing a ballcap with the name of my ship — USS Biddle DLG-34 — on it. Indeed, I had done it before . . . many, many times.
Some scenes from the bridges above the flight deck.
Back on the flight deck, I learned about what I thought was the most amazing aspect of the visit. I was aware that Lowell had flown off Midway during his tour in 1969, but I had no idea the helicopter he piloted was among those on exhibit on Midway. Number 68 in the picture below was Lowell’s bird.
The penultimate phase of our tour was a meeting with Rear Admiral Terry Kraft (Ret.), chief executive officer of the USS Midway Museum. A graduate of the Naval Academy and former commanding officer of USS Ronald Reagan (CVN-76), Kraft was named CEO earlier this year. We met with Admiral Kraft in his office onboard.
He also told us about the museum’s plan to develop a $62-million park adjacent to the ship. The 3.6-acre “Freedom Park” will include a bay-view promenade and amphitheater.
Initial work on the project is to begin in 2024, with completion scheduled for 2028.
And, to top off the morning, lunch — compliments of the CEO.
It was a fine Navy day and a wonderful way to mark Lowell’s 82nd birthday!