Called Senamiestis in Lithuanian, Old Town Vilnius was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1994. It is described as one of the largest medieval old towns in Northern Europe. Covering 887 acres, its cobblestone streets are lined with historic structures from as far back as the 16th century and feature some of Europe’s most classical architectural styles — gothic, renaissance, baroque, and neoclassical.
For our first full day in Vilnius, 20 June, we asked Vilius to give us a tour of Old Town, relying on his knowledge rather than a guidebook. It was a good choice. He was also able to convey some of his personal experiences and background as he had lived for 35 years under Soviet rule.
Vilnius University occupies a large part of Old Town. Founded in 1579 by Jesuits, the university enrolls more than 22,000 students. Its buildings feature 13 distinctive courtyards. On our walkabout, we came across what appeared to be a gathering of students and families either pre- or post-graduation from one of the university programs.
Prominent on campus is the university’s Church of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist, also known as the Church of Saints Johns. Rolls off the tongue, eh? The church’s tower was built in the 16th century and is separate from the church itself. We climbed to the top of the 226-foot-tall tower and had some wonderful panoramic views of Old Town and the city beyond.
This video (2:49) covers the first part of the day’s tour.
Leaving the university, we strolled through narrow streets lined with restaurants, shops, and churches. This video (1:53) ends with a visit to a woodcarver’s shop, with many weird and wonderful works. I was attracted to a chair in the form of an eagle (duh) and wanted just to take a picture of it. A sign had said one euro for pictures. I paid the owner — the carver, I assume — but he insisted I don some garb, carry some menacing pieces of woodwork, and pose in the chair. Okay.
We exited Old Town for a brief spell, leaving through the Gates of Dawn (just a gate now and the only “gate” in or out of Old Town). Heading south for a bit, toward the railway station, we picked up some blueberries and strawberries from a farmers market. Then we came upon a pretty funky area, featuring a lot of street art. Perhaps the most prominent, at least lately, is a drawing of Vladimir Putin and Donald Trump “shotgunning” a joint. (I believe that is the correct term for two people exchanging smoke with their mouths.) Originally, the drawing showed the two kissing, but it was vandalized. When the artist redrew it, he altered the exchange.
Video (1:30)
Lithuania, part III: On the road